Well I'm back safe and sound from my Easter break vacation. Though I did end up leaving 10 hours later than I planned thanks to the unwavering incompetence of SAS Airlines and Arlanda airport. It saddens me to think that the last thing I will see of Sweden when I leave will be that wretched place.
But I digress; I made it to Warsaw all right and after being overcharged by a Polish mafia taxi I made it to the hostel. The hostel itself was kinda crappy, and it was in a bad part of town. I'd call it a ghetto, but y'know... My roommate in the hostel I feel is worth mentioning, as he seemed to be the physical manifestation of Warsaw. A disheveled middle-aged man with a moustache, who does not speak a lick of English, smokes heavily in a non-smoking room and drinks copious amounts of vodka. The last thing he did before going to sleep was have a cigarette and finish off his bottle of vodka. He went out like a light and the only way I knew he wasn't dead was his insufferably loud snoring. The next morning I swear the very first things he did when he woke up were light up a cigarette and open another bottle of vodka.
Warsaw was totally destroyed in WWII, absolutely nothing remained, which means that it's built for the 20th century and traveling by foot is nigh impossible. It also means that the city had to be rebuilt by the Soviets, who have a real eye for aesthetics. Really, communism leaves a stink of its presence wherever it goes, not unlike my roommate at the hostel. The Old Town in downtown Warsaw was really fun and cool I have to admit, though my appreciation for how well kept it looked was misguided since it was all recreated based on prewar photographs. Still fun to see though. Aside from that, the only other thing really worth seeing is the giant fugly skyscraper downtown that I believe is a replica of the 7 skyscrapers in Moscow.
After 2 days in Warsaw I was really worried about the quality of my heritage, then I took the train to Krakow and felt tremendous relief. Apparently Krakow is the town my ancestors are from originally, and strangely enough the city was virtually untouched by war. There was a funny feeling of seeing the Old Town and the castle just as my great great grandparents would have seen them. It's such an amazing place, full of history and culture and delicious Polish food.
I took a day trip from Krakow to Oświęcim, better known as Auschwitz. Needless to say it was rather unsettling, I felt that perhaps I hadn't gotten the scope of it all, though. But maybe it's impossible to actually grasp the magnitude of it all. One odd thing I noticed was that in all the other Polish cities I visited, all the multilingual signs had German text since it's one of the most common languages in Poland. But, perhaps fittingly, there was no German text to be found anywhere in the Auschwitz camp.
After Krakow I had planned to go up to the northeastern part of Poland where, on recommendation, I would tour the lakes up there. Unfortunately because of Easter the buses to Lithuania stopped running after the day I got there so it was either leave immediately or miss Vilnius entirely. Olstein was the name of the town, not much to see and more of a hub for destinations than a destination in itself. It was a small town yet it had the crummyness of a downtown big city. Before I arrived in Olstein I had been very pleased to see an absence of hateful political graffiti in Poland and had figured the Poles more than any other country would understand why Nazism is a bad idea. But my happiness was short lived; there were white power slogans, swastikas, anarchy signs and hammers and sickles EVERYWHERE. I'm going off on a tangent here but what the hell is wrong with these people? I'll give them the anarchy thing since after enduring two totalitarian regimes a lack of any government might seem appealing, and I'll sort of give them the communist thing since it's a good idea *in theory* but having seen its application firsthand I just don't get how any Eastern European could support it. And the swastika, did these people never go to school, watch TV, read books or even look around them? Their capital city was obliterated by the Nazis and 6 million of their citizens were brutally murdered and there are still some that support it?

OK since this whole post is so damn big I'm chopping it up into smaller sections.